Malta: Island of Knights, Faith & Forgotten Civilisations
- Alex van Terheyden
- Apr 1
- 11 min read
Updated: Apr 15
There are places in this world that feel like they’ve seen it all — and Malta is one of them. For a small archipelago in the heart of the Mediterranean, it holds more history, character, and sheer contradiction than cities twenty times its size. This isn’t just a beach holiday destination (though it does that very well); this is a land where ancient temples older than the Pyramids whisper from beneath the soil, where baroque spires reach skyward above bomb-scarred ruins, and where Catholic processions wind through cobbled streets lit by golden light.
My recent return to Malta wasn’t just a vacation. It was a circuit through time. Over the course of a week, I hotel-hopped across the islands — from Gozo to St. Julian’s, Qawra to Gżira — and drove from coast to coast, uncovering its layered stories, its architectural marvels, and its present-day tensions. This isn’t a sugar-coated guide. It’s Malta through the eyes of a seasoned traveller, looking for wonder but never blind to decline.
Getting to Malta – And Getting Around
Most visitors fly into Malta International Airport, a short drive from Valletta. Several European budget carriers fly here regularly, and British tourists will find direct routes from most UK hubs. But don’t stop at the airport. If you want to uncover the real Malta, you’ll need a car. Public transport exists but is sluggish, sporadic, and clunky. I'm not saying don't use it. I'm simply saying a car is more fund and more free. However, Budget travellers will be able to navigate around on the buses.
I recommend renting a car as soon as you land — not only to reach those tucked-away coves and megalithic sites, but to hotel-hop without dragging bags across sun-scorched pavements. Use my recommended platform DiscoverCars to compare rates and secure a vehicle that won’t break the bank.
Valletta – A Fortress of Faith & Stone
Valletta is not just Malta’s capital — it is its heart, its altar, and its defiant stone guardian. Built by the Knights of St. John in the wake of blood and fire, this city rises like a clenched fist from the rock. After the Great Siege of 1565, when an Ottoman force of over 30,000 men descended upon a ragtag garrison of crusader knights, mercenaries, and Maltese peasants — and lost — the Knights knew they needed a city that would never flinch again. So they built Valletta.
Not a city of gardens and cafés. A city of war. A fortress in stone. Bastions thick enough to repel cannon fire. Watchtowers that pierce the horizon. A grid of streets designed for movement, defence, and divine order. This wasn’t just a home — it was a statement to the world: “We survived, and we will never be broken.”
Walk Valletta’s streets and you feel that defiance. It’s in the limestone walls that glow gold in the late sun, in the shadows cast by massive fortresses like Fort St. Elmo, where so many died defending the harbour. The Great Siege wasn’t a battle. It was a bloodletting. Heads were mounted on pikes. Bodies floated in the harbour. The Ottomans catapulted the severed heads of their enemies back over the walls. The defenders responded in kind. It was Christian fury against imperial might — and the Christians won. And they didn’t just build a fortress in victory. They built a shrine.
The St. John’s Co-Cathedral is not just a religious site. It is a jewel box of vengeance, opulence, and faith. Step inside and you are enveloped in carved stone, gold leaf, and blood-red tapestries. The marble tombs beneath your feet are inlaid with skeletons and angels — a reminder that these knights were warriors of both sword and soul. At its heart lies Caravaggio’s masterpiece The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist — raw, brutal, and entirely fitting.
But Valletta isn’t just a museum of Christian triumph. It’s alive. The narrow streets echo with laughter and clinking glasses. Balconies sag under the weight of history. Children play football in quiet courtyards. Old men sip coffee in sunlit squares. It’s a city that breathes, but never forgets how it was born.
You don’t come to Valletta for beaches or buffets. You come to feel stone under your feet and centuries in your bones. Stay at least two nights. Walk its ramparts at golden hour. Hear the gun salute at the Upper Barrakka Gardens. Drink where knights once plotted. Valletta isn’t a stop on a tour — it’s a cathedral city carved out of war, faith, and fierce pride.
The Hotel Hop Begins – Discovering Malta Through Its Stays
After Valletta, my journey became an open-road experiment in Maltese hospitality. I drove, I wandered, I reviewed. The result? A genuine island sampler of what you can expect—whether you’re seeking budget beds or polished polish. Each of these hotels has a dedicated YouTube short or review if you want to dig deeper, but here’s the essence of what I uncovered.
Stop 1: Gżira & Sliema – Budget Beds, Functional Base
Stayed: Bayview Hotel by ST Hotels
Also Stayed: The Londoner Hotel (Sliema)
Let’s start in Gżira and Sliema, Malta’s coastal cousins. They won’t exactly dazzle you with charm, but they work. These areas are function over form: built-up, a little soulless in places, but undeniably convenient. If you’re not in Malta to lounge but to explore, this is a smart base.
Bayview Hotel is very much “you get what you pay for.” Small rooms, showers that turn the bathroom into a puddle, and balconies staring into other balconies. But it’s affordable, central-ish, and has a rooftop pool that tries to redeem the experience. 5/10.
The Londoner Hotel, on the other hand, was a solid upgrade. Tidy, modern, tucked into a quiet residential stretch of Sliema. No flashy amenities, but it’s comfortable, well-located, and easy on the wallet. 6.5/10.
📍 The big win here? Location.
This area is more affordable than Valletta and only a 5-minute ferry ride away. If you’re on a budget and still want easy access to Malta’s cultural crown jewel, this is the base that makes sense. From here, you can hop buses, drive the coast, or zigzag through the island’s urban spine.
🎯 Nearby Highlights:
• Ferry to Valletta (quick, scenic, cheap)
• Promenade walks with sea breeze
• Manoel Island’s abandoned fort & views
• Cafés and casual nightlife scattered along the Strand
💤 Where to Stay in the Area:
• Budget: Two Pillows Boutique Hostel – Sociable and central.
• Mid-range: The Londoner Hotel – Noisy if on a lower floor, Quieter on a higher floor.
• High-end: AX The Palace – Rooftop views and refined luxury.
🚶♂️ The Verdict:
This area won’t impress your senses, but it ticks logistical boxes. Use it to springboard into Valletta or as a comfortable place to crash while you tour the rest of the island. Malta doesn’t need five-star bases to deliver five-star experiences.
🔍 Along the Way – Malta’s Ancient Enigmas
As you crisscross the island—especially between Mdina and the northern coast—you may notice something peculiar etched into the bedrock: parallel grooves, worn deep into the limestone. These are Malta’s Cart Ruts, a mystery that has baffled archaeologists for decades.
Some call them ancient roadways, others suggest they were water channels, and a few even whisper theories of pre-Ice Age civilisations. What’s certain is this: they’re older than anything else on the island, and they appear to lead nowhere—or in some cases, straight off cliffs and into the sea. The area around Clapham Junction (not the one in London!) is where they’re most concentrated. Stop there if you’re curious. You’ll walk among them and feel the weight of untold history under your feet.
Stop 2: St. Paul’s Bay – Time Capsule by the Sea
Stayed: Qawra Palace Resort & Spa
This part of Malta — comprising Qawra, Bugibba, and the broader St. Paul’s Bay area — feels like it was built for the golden era of package tourism. And to some extent, it still wears that badge with pride.
The Qawra Palace Resort & Spa is a relic of that era — unapologetically big, bold, and brimming with nostalgia. Perched right on the water’s edge, the views are soothing, the rooms are functional, and the clientele tends to be sun-seeking northern Europeans looking to escape grey skies. Think: bingo nights, buffet spreads, and sea breezes wafting over plastic sun loungers. It’s not stylish, and no one here is trying to pretend otherwise. But if you’re after value for money, you could do far worse — especially if you snag a room facing the sea.
This isn’t where you come for Maltese charm. But it is where you can pause, recharge, and enjoy a cold drink by the pool while plotting your next move across the island.
Alternatives in the Area:
• Budget: Park Lane Aparthotel – Excellent reviews, kitchenettes, and a touch more independence.
• Mid-range: AX Sunny Coast Resort & Spa – Clean, functional, with easy access to the promenade.
• Premium: Salini Resort – Set slightly inland with sweeping views over Salina Bay, this 4-star resort offers a more serene, upscale experience than the beachfront bustle of Bugibba or Qawra. With spacious rooms, two outdoor pools, and well-reviewed dining options, it’s ideal for travellers wanting a more tranquil base—without straying too far from the action. The vibe here is less bingo hall, more low-key luxury.
📍 Why stay in St. Paul’s Bay?
You’re well-placed for day trips to Gozo, exploring Malta’s rugged northern coastline, or venturing inland to Mosta, Mdina, or the Mġarr countryside. Bugibba has a lively if slightly faded seafront, and Qawra’s aquarium adds a bit of family-friendly appeal. Don’t expect charm — expect convenience.
Stop 3: Gozo – A Breath of Authenticity
Stepping onto Gozo is like switching gears entirely. It’s greener, quieter, and rooted. The Duke in Victoria (Gozo’s capital) strikes the perfect balance of boutique charm and urban convenience. Right next to the Citadel, you’re surrounded by real life—markets, locals, and authentic Maltese rhythm. One of my favourites.
Alternatives on Gozo:
• Budget: Maria Giovanna Guest House - Located in Marsalforn, this charming guesthouse offers comfortable rooms with a homely feel. Guests praise its cleanliness and the delightful breakfast served daily.
• Mid-range: Cesca’s Boutique Hotel (Xlendi) – A romantic hillside escape.
• Premium: Kempinski Hotel San Lawrenz – Rural luxury with spa indulgence.
📍 Why Gozo? Smaller, wilder, and wonderfully preserved. See the Citadel, drive through sleepy villages, dive into the Inland Sea, or hike coastal cliffs. Gozo has a soul, and you feel it.
🇲🇹 Gozo’s Darkest Hour – The 1551 Massacre
For all its beauty and calm, Gozo carries a haunting memory—one that still echoes through its Citadel walls. In 1551, Ottoman forces launched a devastating raid on the island. With the bulk of Malta’s defenders stationed near Valletta and Birgu, Gozo was left terribly exposed.
The Ottoman fleet stormed Gozo with little resistance. Nearly the entire population—between 5,000 and 6,000 people—was rounded up and enslaved, shipped off to the markets of Tripoli and Constantinople. It was one of the most brutal acts of piracy in the Mediterranean, and it nearly wiped Gozo off the map.
The island was left silent. Its churches, farms, and villages stood empty. Gozo became a ghost isle.
But it didn’t stay that way. Slowly, families returned. The Knights of St. John helped repopulate the island, and over generations, the Gozitans rebuilt—not just their homes, but their identity. The Citadel in Victoria, once breached, was fortified stronger than ever. The trauma became part of the island’s collective soul, but so did resilience.
Today, Gozo is often seen as Malta’s peaceful sibling—but don’t mistake that peace for weakness. This island rose from the ashes. It remembers. It stands.
Stop 4: St. Julian’s – Where Malta Forgets Itself
Stayed: Radisson Blu Resort & Vivaldi Hotel
St. Julian’s is Malta’s attempt at being everything to everyone—nightlife, business, beach, luxury, and convenience. The result? Confusion. The Radisson Blu nails comfort and professionalism. Great breakfast. Proper bathrooms. A clear choice for business travellers and conference-goers.
The Vivaldi Hotel, on the other hand, is… fine. But like its neighbourhood, it doesn’t quite know who it’s for. Not bad, not great. Somewhere in the middle.
Alternatives in the Area:
• Budget: Boho Hostel (St Julian’s) – Young, social, and affordable.
• Mid-range: be.HOTEL (St George’s Bay) – Sleek, good location.
• Premium: Hilton Malta – The undisputed king of comfort in the area.
📍 Why St Julian’s? You’re near the clubs, the casinos, and the conference centres. But don’t come here for character or culture. You’ll find that elsewhere.
St Julian’s – From Quiet Fishing Village to Playground of the Mediterranean
Long before the neon signs and casino towers, St Julian’s was a sleepy fishing village. The sheltered bay, now home to luxury yachts and cocktail bars, once held luzzu boats, and families that had worked the sea for generations. It was a place of simple lives—nets, salt air, and stone chapels.
Its name comes from St Julian the Hospitaller, the patron saint of hunters and travellers—a fitting figure for a town that now hosts thousands of passing guests each week. You can still find his 17th-century church just above Spinola Bay, mostly overlooked by tourists chasing Aperol spritzes and sushi deals.
But it wasn’t always luxury and leisure. In the 19th century, the British turned much of the area into officer quarters, and by the mid-20th century, St Julian’s was already becoming Malta’s answer to seaside fun. Paceville, now the island’s nightlife capital, began as a post-war residential area—before morphing into the club district it is today.
There’s a tension here—between what was and what is. Old fishermen’s houses sit next to glass-fronted towers. The sea hasn’t changed, but the skyline has. And while you’re unlikely to find depth or soul in Paceville’s DJ booths, there are corners of St Julian’s that still whisper the old island rhythm—you just have to wander off the main drag to find them.
The Giant Temples of Malta – A Prehistoric Power
No journey through Malta is complete without a visit to its megalithic temples, especially Ġgantija on Gozo and Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra on Malta’s southern coast. These aren’t just ruins—they’re some of the oldest freestanding structures on Earth, built over 5,500 years ago, long before the Great Pyramids rose from the sands of Egypt.
The Ġgantija Temples take their name from the Maltese word for giant (ġgant)—local legends claim that they were built by a race of giants. Whether myth or metaphor, standing among their massive stones makes you realise how much we don’t know about the past. The builders left no writing, just intricate carvings, altars, and a perfect alignment with the solstices. It’s not just ancient—it’s sophisticated.
If you’re staying near Qawra or making your way south, carve out time for these sites. They don’t get the attention of Machu Picchu or Stonehenge, but they deserve to.
The Route - Malta is so small you could take any Route!
If I were to do it all again—and I likely will—this would be the rhythm of my Maltese adventure:
1. Valletta (2–3 nights): For history, walking, and grandeur.
2. Drive inland to Mdina for a few hours — Malta’s silent city, still whispering secrets.
3. Head to Qawra or Mellieħa (1–2 nights): Recharge, catch a sunset, and go slow.
4. Ferry to Gozo (2 nights): See a different Malta. This is the heart.
5. End in St Julian’s (1 night): If you must, or back to Valletta for final reflections.
🚘 Car Hire Tip:
Malta’s roads are narrow, occasionally chaotic, and full of character (some call it madness). Book smart through DiscoverCars – an affiliate link, but genuinely the best value I found.
I hope this article was helpful to you and helps add to your future journey positively. Your support through sharing helps me continue creating content just like this! If you found this information valuable, please consider joining my mailing list (below) following me on Instagram or subscribing to my YouTube Channel. You can also support me by becoming a member on YouTube or SubscribeStar, or even just by buying me a coffee on Ko-Fi. I'm not sponsored by anyone, my content is independently provided because I believe it will be beneficial to readers like you.
Happy travels, The Wondering Englishman
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